According to the World Bank, the fashion industry contributes to around 10 percent carbon emissions each year. This figure is huge: so huge that it beats the same figures of the international flights and maritime shipping combined. Something even worse is that a whopping 85% of all textiles go to the dump each year. Considering that water sources have been dried up, and rivers and streams have been polluted, the fashion industry (fast fashion in particular) should be feeling rather guilty. However - clearly not. The majority of the fashion industry continues to environmentally progress at snails pace. I talked to Biba Marks - second hand, sustainable enthusiast - to discover the lowdown to a more sustainable way of living.
I asked Biba her thoughts on the popularity of the second-hand industry, and whether it has increased over the past few years or not. She explains: "I definitely think the amount of people has increased - It may be down to social media, or just people becoming more aware about how second-hand is just as good or better than buying new but it is much more widely discussed now.". Biba also tells me about the 'shift' that our culture has seen recently. She says:
"People are looking for more authentic pieces that nobody else will have". Fast fashion is seeming pretty dire when you can get more original pieces for lower prices!
Nowadays, it's difficult not to talk about the world around us, and how it's shaping the way we live.
"I feel really bad for the high street charity shops. A lot of their customers that they usually see are now edging towards the likes of Ebay and Depop. However some of the prices on Depop are massively inflated compared to those of charity shops. And [the charity shops] will possibly become a 'one stop shop' for Depop - people will then go onto sell a £1 t-shirt for £20".
Here, Biba highlights a topical issue. Since buying sustainably is becoming more chic, some online sellers are taking this and exploiting the trend. We discuss the likes of Zara as an example of a brand trying to label some of it's collections as sustainable. But how sustainable are those collections, really?
Biba later says, "If you want to get properly sustainable brands, that aren't second hand - then you have to pay a 'ridiculous' price. But if you think about it, is it even a ridiculous price? Especially if it's handmade - that's someone's time. We've been so brainwashed by fast fashion brands… to think that we need more, more, more.".
What would you say to people who aren't fond of buying second hand? Biba seems like she has been ready to answer this question her whole life.
"So, I would say: You’re not comfortable wearing second hand clothes, yet you're comfortable wearing clothes that possibly were made by a child, or someone who hasn't been paid proper wages. Or a piece of clothing which it's brand's factory has released countless tons of pollution, or that animals have suffered for. You’re not comfortable with something having a story yet you're comfortable with all those horrible things".
Biba buys the trendiest second hand clothes in town and is a fashion-whiz when it comes to Ebay. I ask her what her tips are for finding gems in a sea of choice. "When I first started buying from Ebay, it was quite overwhelming! You can get millions of results if you search up something like '90s' (it's not specific enough). Ebay takes more practice. Learn the filters…Narrow them down."
For lockdown, this next tip is crucial: "These apps have algorithms if you have an account. The more you use them, the more they recommend stuff related to previous searches and liked items".
Finding brands you like is also an important part to second hand shopping. Biba continues: "If you find a seller you like, all of it will be right in front of you". From personal knowledge, I know that it’s great to shop in vintage/charity shops in those well-dressed grandma areas of London. There's some great pieces to be found.
Here are a selection of fantastic charity shops near you:
Oxfam - Wimbledon High Street
https://onlineshop.oxfam.org.uk/shop - (this is Oxfam's online website which also has lots to chose from!)
Princess Alice - New Malden High Street, Raynes Park - 82 Coombe Lane
British Heart Foundation - Just past the main entrance to Wimbledon Station
Cancer Research - The Broadway, Wimbledon
FARA - Kensington High Street
Barnardo's - New Malden High Street
Clearly, this is the way forward. As a society, we must not give into consumerism! Let's buy small scale, sustainable and second-hand - and each do our part in saving the planet.
