This autumn the old Westminster Fire Station tucked away off the main thoroughfares has become home to an Indian fine dining experience. 

Yaatra offers a “journey through Old India” but there is a lot that feels like fusion, with delicately spice meats, accompanied by rich curry sauces. 

The venue, previously Mathura, has five dining areas but we were in the the main restaurant, the Ruby Room - a spacious, airy area with just about the right noise levels. 

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We shared a basket of three types of poppadoms - most striking of which was a fantastic sago, almost popcorn like and dusted with curry powder - with a berry chutney and a mint sauce. 

Scallops, ribs and monos are among the starters but we opted for the Amritsari Prawn and the Khubani Paneer Tikka. 

The prawns were, frankly, massive and marinated in carom and yoghurt. 

The paneer was even better, the soft cheese combined with sweet and tart flavours  of apricot and coriander chutneys, and accompanied by the crunch of a quinoa and lentil chat. 

For main, my companion could not resist the “surf and turf” of the Chettinad Lobster and Beef Steak - tender well spiced and seasoned, and luxurious. 

I went for the more-restrained Madurai Newlyn Turbot and Clam Kiri Hodi, which is served with a fragrant coconut and pandan leaf curry on a bed of rice noodles. 

It’s subtle but tasty. 

The meal was topped off with light and sweet Rasmalai strawberry cheese cake and chocolate, orange and coffee mouse respectively. 

There is little remaining of the former fire station - just an incongruous pole by the bar - but what the venue has is a balance of luxury and comfort, well managed by attentive staff. 

Address: Old Westminster Fire Station, 4 Greycoat Place, SW1P 1SB

Website: yaatrarestaurant.com

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