Since I was five, I had only seen those sunlight-smothered villages of stone and sea as distant fantasies, that I could only come close to by pressing my face against the covers of fairy tale books, which I had already flicked through thousands of times. So, when ten years later I found myself standing right in the centre of one of those fairy tales myself, I was absolutely astounded. I found myself with an atmosphere of sunlight, stone and sea flooding towards me at once, weaving through charming gardens and charming-er cottages; I found myself smothered in sweet and salty and delicate scents; I found myself in Clovelly, a real-life fairy tale. 

 

Clovelly is a harbour village situated in North Devon, loved by iconic British figures like Charles Dickens, and the UK’s 3rd most trending travel destination on Airbnb, for great reason - an enchanting, cobbled village, spilling over a magnificent 400’ cliff, overlooking a picture perfect, salty sea, what’s not to love? 

 

Well, I must admit that when I first read about this supposed ‘trending travel destination’, I had some doubts: surely there can’t be that much to do in a tiny village on the edge of the country? Can’t I find a village like this, that doesn’t charge an entry fee, in any other countryside? Am I just meant to believe that the perfectly patterned images plastered across Google are truly what I’m going to see as I wade out of the clammy depths of my car?  

 

But, like the warmth of a Cornish pasty melting onto your tongue, those doubts were dissolved instantly. 

 

What struck me first was the scenery. Maybe it was simply luck, but on this day, I could assure you with utmost certainty that the cerulean strokes of Clovelly sky surpassed even those plastered across Google. The air, plagued by no traffic or vehicles, held a sense of tranquillity that no Airbnb review could have even slightly recreated. From the donkey stables to the vibrant sweet shops to the shiny cobbled pathway reminiscent of the Wizard of Oz, every corner of this petite village was packed with ounces of colour and character. 

 

So much character, in fact, that my family even burst out into mini quarrels about where to go next: 

‘The pasty place smells so nice, let’s go in!’ 

‘But we need to try out the pottery first!’ 

‘Not before we head down towards the harbour!’ 

 

Luckily for us there was no rush, as our entry fees (£4.95 for under 16s, £8.50 for those over) granted us access to this fairy tale land for not just the whole day, but the entire week! Thus, we managed to spend over three hours venturing through every cottage and garden, munching on fudge and pasties and gazing into the horizon until each tree and leaf was smothered in orange sunlight. 

 

So, looking for a break from the hecticness of everyday life? Head down to Clovelly. Looking for somewhere with enough history to intrigue the adults, yet enough cottages and colour to captivate the kids? Head down to Clovelly. Looking to fulfil your childhood fantasy of finding yourself wandering a seaside village – please, head down to Clovelly, the real-life fairy tale.