Perms, short for permanents, short for permanent waves, have been trendy for years after the invention of the permanent wave machine in the early twentieth century. In the last few years, perms have reentered and may have become even more popular with men than with women.

 

Did you know that Bob Ross's iconic afro was actually a perm? Bob Ross naturally has straight hair. His business partner said he decided if he let his hair grow out and permed it he could save money on haircuts. When Ross got famous, a picture of him with his perm in the logo was put on a line of paints and brushes. From then on, he kept the signature bushy hair. It was good for marketing purposes.

 

During the late 1800s and early 1900s, several hairdressers discovered that by applying chemicals and heat to women's hair, they could technologically create curls that would last days to weeks or months. The desire for long-lasting curls was widespread among women of this period; in the Edwardian era, curls and hot tools were all the rage. The permanent wave machine was invented 1906 by German hairdresser Karl Nessler; methods of perming have become more sophisticated throughout the years. He wrapped around chemically treated pads, and used gas to heat hair, creating wavy hair for months. Later electricity was used with hair being wrapped around metal wires. In the 1900s women had new freedoms and many wanted to try out the modern invention of the funky-looking perm machine (an image is worth googling!). 

 

Perms are chemical treatments. They work by changing the chemical composition of the hair. Hair is wrapped around rollers and heat is required to activate the chemical so the hair can set in curl formation. Nowadays, perms usually last from three up to six months, and about four months for men with short hair.

 

Amongst women, perms have been fashionable since the 50s and were prolific during their second wave of popularity in the 70s and 80s, Bob Ross wasn’t the only one to jump on the perm train. The spiral perm was rocked in the 80s by Cher, Sarah Jessica-Parker and simulated in the wigs of Dolly Parton. Perms have been mostly associated with women’s hair dos yet were also an 80s classic for men.

 

Today, the tight coils usually associated with perms of the past often appear far more natural and cold alkaline perms, which cause less heat damage to the hair, are available. Perms for men are, actually, one of the beauty industry's biggest emerging trends. TikTok has fuelled this trend. TikTok hashtag #boyperm has accumulated 1.2 million views where #perm has 1.1billion views across all videos, many featuring men getting perms. Hairstylist Olivia Smalley asserts ‘Perms for men are, actually, one of the beauty industry's biggest emerging trends.’ The male perm, especially in hairstyles with shaved sides and curly tops, is all the rage, especially among teens and young people.

 

Japanese and Korean people have been ahead of the curve in terms of men's perms. It's very common to get a down perm done in Korea, it's basically a service available at any salon. Perms are done here for style and practicality, managing thick straight hair. Aside from a slight wavy perm, hair may be  “down perm”, relaxing the hair, keeping side hairs down even after washing.