Christmas recipes: Recreate Victorian food delights (From This Is Local London)

Christmas recipes: Recreate Victorian food delights

in Food and Drink

Recreate Victorian times with our recipes from 100 years ago. Ditch the turkey and go for old-fashioned meats and try dishes inspired by history.

Recipes created by food historian Ivan Day.

Pot roast shoulder of lamb (Serves 4-6)

Pot roast shoulder of lamb is a Victorian dish that was invented to honour Queen Victoria's eldest son Edward, who eventually became King Edward VII.

Preparation time: 20-25 minutes, plus marinating time. Cooking time: 2½ hours.

Ingredients:
1 x 1.8kg/4lb lean boned shoulder of lamb
5ml/1tsp cardamom pods, crushed and seeds removed
5ml/1tsp allspice seeds, crushed
5ml/1tsp coriander seeds, crushed
5ml/1tsp black peppercorns
Salt
150ml/¼ pint red wine
60ml/4tbsp white wine vinegar
6 pickled walnuts, chopped
Knob of butter
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
50g/2oz dried porcini mushrooms, softened in 300ml/½pint hot water
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
4 small turnips, peeled and chopped or 1 small pumpkin, seeds removed and roughly chopped
450ml/¾ pint good, hot lamb stock
Freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley

Method:
Lay the joint, skin side down in a large, flat dish. Sprinkle over the spices, seasoning, vinegar and wine. Cover and marinate for at least 6 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

Place the joint on a chopping board, skin side down. Discard the marinade and sprinkle the walnuts over the joint. Roll up and secure with butcher's string or elasticated meat bands.

Heat the butter in a large non-stick frying pan. Drain the liquid from the mushrooms and reserve. Cook the onion and mushrooms for 2-3 minutes until soft but not brown and transfer to a large casserole dish. Add the reserved mushroom liquid. Preheat the oven to gas mark 3, 170C, 325F.

In the same non-stick frying pan brown the joint with the vegetables for 2-3 minutes and transfer to the casserole dish with the stock.

Cover and cook for 2½ hours or until tender.

Garnish with the parsley and serve with crusty bread.

Tip: If preferred, use 2 x 900g/2lb half lamb shoulder joints instead.

Minted lamb chops with cucumber relish (Serves 4)

This dish can be dated back to the Georgian period where cucumber was traditionally cooked and served with meat rather than eaten raw in salads.

Preparation time: 20-25 minutes, plus marinating. Cooking time: Under 20 minutes.

Ingreidents:
8 lean lamb loin chops or cutlets
For the Marinade:
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
90ml/6tbsp freshly chopped mint
30ml/2tbsp sugar
30ml/2tbsp olive oil
90ml/6tbsp white wine vinegar
For the Relish:
15ml/1tbsp butter
3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 large cucumber, peeled and cut into thin slices
Pinch nutmeg
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
150ml/¼ pint good, hot chicken or vegetable stock
15ml/1tbsp fresh thyme leaves

Method:
To prepare the marinade; mix all the ingredients together. Place the lamb in a shallow dish, spoon over the marinade and coat on both sides. Cover and marinate for up to 1 hour.

To prepare the relish; heat the butter in a large non-stick frying pan and cook the shallots for 2-3 minutes. Add the cucumber, nutmeg and seasoning and continue to cook for a further 5 minutes.

Add the stock and thyme. Cover and simmer for a further 5 minutes.

Cook the chops under a preheated grill for 12-16 minutes, turning occasionally.

Serve the chops with the relish and new potatoes.

Braised beef with Madeira sauce (Serves 4-6)

This is a modernized version of a recipe published in a cookery book written in 1815.

Preparation time: 10-15 minutes. Cooking time: 30-40 minutes per 450g/1lb plus 30-40 minutes.

Ingredients:
1.3kg/3lb lean brisket or silverside joint
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
75g/3oz bacon, roughly chopped or bacon lardons
6 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
15ml/1tbsp oil
1 small bunch fresh herbs (such as winter savory, oregano and thyme)
3 parsnips, peeled and chopped
4 celery sticks, chopped
450ml/¾ pint good, hot beef stock
450ml/¾ pint Madeira wine
10ml/2tsp good quality truffle oil

Method:
Place the joint on a chopping board and season.

Heat a large non-stick frying pan and cook the bacon, shallots and garlic for 3-4 minutes. Transfer to a large ovenproof casserole dish.

In the same frying pan heat the oil and brown the joint on all sides for 4-5 minutes and transfer to the dish.

Add the remaining ingredients, cover the dish with 2 sheets of greaseproof paper or foil and secure with a lid.

Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and cook on the hob for the calculated cooking time until the beef is tender.

Remove the joint from the pan, transfer to a warm plate, cover and rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Meanwhile add the truffle oil to the sauce and stir gently.

Serve the brisket with the sauce, crushed potatoes and steamed cabbage.

Tip: Alternatively, cook in the oven at Gas mark 3, 170C,325F.

Autumnal beef and chestnut casserole (Serves 4)

This casserole dish comes from an early 18th century recipe.

Preparation time: 25 minutes. Cooking time: 1½-2 hours.

Ingredients:
450g/1lb lean boneless shin, stewing or braising beef, cut into 2.5cm/1inch cubes
30ml/2tbsp plain flour seasoned with salt and freshly milled black pepper and 10ml/2tsp ground nutmeg
20ml/2tsp oil
8 shallots, peeled and left whole
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
175g/6oz baby carrots, topped and left whole
4 tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and roughly chopped
Grated zest of 1 lemon
450ml/¾ pint good, hot beef stock
200ml/7floz good red wine
15ml/1tbsp fresh thyme leaves
200g/7oz cooked and peeled whole chestnuts

Method:
Preheat the oven to Gas mark 3,170°C,325°F.

Place the flour, seasoning and nutmeg into a large plastic food bag. Add the beef in batches and coat with the seasoned flour.

Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan and cook the beef for 4-5 minutes until brown on all sides. Transfer to a 1.2L/2pint ovenproof casserole dish.

In the same frying pan cook the shallots, garlic and carrots for 2-3 minutes. Spoon into the casserole dish with the tomatoes.

Add the remaining ingredients to the casserole dish, bring to the boil, cover and transfer to the oven to cook for 1½-2 hours.

Serve with mustard mash.

Tip: This recipe is perfect cooked in a slow cooker, but always refer to the manufacturer's instructions first.

Orange roast beef stuffed with spinach and herbs (Serves 4)

This luxury dish come from the period of Charles II and involved the meat being roasted on a spit in front of the fire.

Preparation time: 25-30 minutes, plus marinating time. Cooking time: Rare: 20 minutes per 450g/1lb plus 20 minutes; Medium: 25 minutes per 450g/1lb plus 25 minutes; Well done: 30 minutes per 450g/1lb plus 30 minutes.

Ingredients:
1 x 1.3kg/3lb lean topside, sirloin or fillet of beef joint
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
2 hard-boiled egg yolks, chopped
50g/2oz fresh baby spinach, rinsed and finely chopped
30ml/2tbsp freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley
15ml/1tbsp fresh thyme leaves
15ml/1tbsp freshly chopped oregano or marjoram leaves
4 medium red onions, peeled and cut into wedges
For the Marinade:
30ml/2tbsp olive oil
Grated zest and juice of 2 Seville or Mandarin oranges or similar
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
15ml/1tbsp sherry vinegar

Method:
Place the joint on a chopping board, remove any butcher's string or elasticated meat bands and season on both sides. Using a sharp knife cut along the joint, horizontally, to create a pocket-like cavity, but do not cut all the way through.

In a medium bowl mix together the egg yolks, seasoning, spinach and herbs. Use the mixture to fill the cavity of the joint and tie with butcher's string or elasticated meat bands.

To prepare the marinade; mix all the ingredients together. Rub the marinade over the joint, cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours, turning occasionally. Remove the joint from the fridge one hour before roasting. Preheat the oven to Gas mark 4, 180°C,350°F.

Place the onions in a roasting tin, remove the joint from the marinade and position on top of the onions. Discard the marinade.

Open roast for the preferred calculated cooking time, basting occasionally with any rich beefy juices.

Serve the beef with the onions and pan juices.